| Introduction
to IPSC Pistol - 6
Magazine
changes by Chris Scott CRO |
In
the context of auto-loading pistols with box magazines
(1911s, Glocks, etc.) “mags” containing the ammunition inside
the grip – ( “clips” are
entirely different and rarely encountered with handguns), there
is a right way to quickly and safely do a “speed reload”. First,
keep all your mags on your belt facing the same way – bullet
tips pointing to your belly. The sequence is something
like this:
Do
three things at once – 1. remove your trigger finger from
the trigger and allow it to fully straighten outside the
trigger guard, 2. remove your weak hand from the grip and
grasp the new mag on your belt – your
palm and index finger should contact the forward side of
the mag.
3.
With your index finger on the fresh mag and close to the tip
of the first round, use your strong hand thumb to press
the mag release button with the gun still held vertical so the
expended magazine will drop straight down to the ground.
Then,
slightly retract the gun, keeping the gun about chin high while
slightly canting it so the bottom of the grip magazine well
("magwell") is aligned with the direction the new mag
is coming from.
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Quickly
bring the new mag up to the gun while your eyes are on the
gun's magwell opening. Matt Burkett teaches an interesting and
counterintuitive technique at this point – pause the insertion
motion so that the top of the new mag is about an inch short
of the magwell. When your eyes tell you that you have achieved
proper alignment, press it home, taking care not to “jam” your
weak hand's index finger.
The
reasoning behind this pause is to prevent the major delay caused
by a blown mag change due to misalignment. As you improve,
you can reduce the duration of the pause. With the new
mag fully seated; I'll say it again: fully seated, the weak hand
rejoins the grip while the gun rotates back on target. During
the entire process, the finger is off the trigger, and the muzzle
points downrange – not up
or down.
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Below
is an Mpeg video showing Grandmaster Travis Tomasie doing what
may be the world's fastest reload. If you want to
see it multiple times, please right-click it and choose "save
as" or "download".
Dial-up
connections may not be able to display this.
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| Speed
versus accuracy |
This
is the conundrum all practical shooters must decide – when
to spend the extra time achieving a better sight picture, and
when to use a “good enough” sight picture and go faster. Quotes
from champion shooters: "When I evaluate how to shoot
a stage, I usually decide there's two ways to shoot it - fast
and faster"
(Rob Leatham) "Make every shot count" (Max Michel).
Do these bits of advice sound like contradictions?
Actually not, as you'll do both, depending upon the difficulty
and distance of the target. Results will tell you when to slow
down – if
you're getting misses ("mikes"), then obviously you
must slow down and use more care. If you're getting all alphas
but are consistently the slowest shooter, consider speeding
up a bit. Experience
will teach you how far you can push your speed and still score
well. A good rule of thumb is to shoot at a speed where
you get no mikes, and at least 90 percent of the available
points. In
the case of shooting major caliber, this means half A-zone
hits and half C-zone hits. If you're shooting minor
caliber, you need to be getting more A hits. During
practice, shoot for exclusively A-zone hits. You need to have
the confidence of being able to reliably hit the A-zone on
demand.
It
really comes down to this:
1. Develop
your stance, grip, and trigger pull so that when you pull the
trigger through, your sights remain
in the A zone during
dry fire. The sights will rise during live fire recoil. Practice
quickly returning them to the A zone.
2. Pay really close attention to your sight picture. Try
hard to see everything - it's all happening right before your
eyes.
3. Shoot as fast as you can execute 1 & 2.
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| Practice |
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The
hallmark of the Grandmaster is not just speed - but smoothness.
All wasted motion is removed until only the essentials
remain. You should try some practice in slow motion, and
watch what you're doing in a mirror. This way you can correct
mistakes, build good safety habits , and program the "muscle
memory" that
will allow you to shoot smoothly and safely.
Depending
upon your personal goals, required practice can vary from almost
none (only shooting matches) to five days a week if you're on
the really fast track. Realistically, as a minimum when you're
first developing your skills, plan on live fire at least once
or twice a week, supplemented with at least twice a week dry
fire practice. Experts recommend more dry fire than that. That's
right – dry
fire. It's
worth repeating. The top shooters agree that dry fire practice
is very effective. There are many online resources that
provide practice drills. Grandmaster Steve Anderson made
it to the top using primarily dry fire practice. And he
wrote a popular book on it.
Click
the image at the right to download a sample of Steve
Anderson's book in PDF format. It can be ordered
from BrianEnos.com |
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| Coaching can
really increase your rate of improvement. It's particularly important
when you're first beginning - to ensure you avoid developing bad
habits. Top-level coaching will cost money, but help and advice
from a higher ranked club shooter can be almost as good, and might
even be free. You will not receive coaching unless you ask for
it. |
When
you practice live fire, don't skimp on ammo. 200 plus
rounds per session is a good place to start. Many expert
shooters begin and end their session with group shooting, which
is shooting slowly for maximum accuracy at distance, say 25 to
50 yards. The
reason for this is to maintain accuracy skills, to prove
that your sights are set correctly, and that your gun will deliver
A-zone hits if you do your part. I've
personally started a match, only to find that I couldn't hit
distant targets for some reason. This
destroyed my much-needed confidence. After bombing two
stages, I finally discovered that my sights had come loose. If
I had ended my last practice session with group shooting, I would
have discovered the problem before the match.
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Practical
shooting, like any sport,
takes time and effort to increase skill. There
will be times when your progress is fast and things are going
well. But you'll also experience bad days and extended downturns.
This is normal. Consistent practice will take you where you want
to go.
As
you progress, an accessory item you should consider is a shot
timer so you can really know if you're improving. These are
available from several practical shooting vendors, such as Kentucky's
own Shooter's
connection. You should also visit Dawson
Precision, Speed
Shooters, and Brazos.
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